Friday 27 February 2009

Twill on the rigid heddle loom

I've been playing with 1/2 and 2/1 twill recently. I blame this book. On one of my rare forays to the shops, I visited Borders bookshop and found this, the only weaving book they had. No longer are fabric types totally mysterious. Sadly for me, the book is aimed at weavers with a 4 shaft loom, but there are a few things which are for 2. This twill isn't one of them really because it needs 3. Undaunted, I figured out the threading for extended point threading. I used two 10 dpi heddles and some red 4 ply wool/nylon yarn. I used the holes in one heddle as one shaft, the holes in the second heddle as the second and the slots in both as the third. This involved missing every 4th hole in each heddle and having either 1 or 2 threads in each slot which meant that the sett was variable.

With this setup, six different sheds are possible: front heddle up, rear heddle up, both heddles down, giving weft dominance and the opposite: front heddle down, rear heddle down, both heddles up, giving warp dominance. The patterns you can get are not what you expect to see on a rigid heddle loom. Yet again, I'm using up oddments so my trademark eclectic colourways are in evidence.










It's been fun trying this out and I may use the technique for an actual item sometime. The uneven sett doesn't really detract from the fabric, in fact it adds an extra dimension to it, especially on the chevron pattern.

Just to say that I have still been knitting, and that the second sleeve of Kearsarge was finished last night. I will have enough yarn. Phew!

Wednesday 18 February 2009

It's been a while...

Yet again it's been a month or so since I wrote anything here. Mainly because I've been weaving a lot and knitting a little. I find it difficult to find suitable blogging time for some reason. Anyway, my progress on Kearsarge has been steady, and now I just have one sleeve to do, along with the neckband and seams.

I've made some modifications to the raglan shaping, since I didn't like how the decreases were spaced in the pattern ie. decreasing every 2 rows x times, then every 4 rows y times. This gives a strange shape to the pieces. I recalculated the shaping to give a smooth slope to the raglans which I prefer. If the sleeve looks a bit skinny, it's because it is knitted in mistake rib which contracts when left alone. It has lots of stretch and goes round my arm fine.

I took the scissors to my piece of green stripey wool fabric having sewn a zigzag either side of the cutting lines. This turned out to not be necessary as the fulling was enough to hold it together. I made a long bag with pockets on the outside for the shuttles. Inside is plenty of room for the heddles, warp rods and pickup stick. I had trouble getting a picture of the whole thing, but here are the pockets.



My sewing machine grumbled a bit about the multiple thicknesses, but we made it. I took the lengths of tapestry wool left over from the warp (the ends of skeins which weren't long enough for a warp length) and plaited them into a thick drawstring for the top.


Since then I've woven a scarf using patterned all wool sock yarn which I overdyed first, because it was too bright. I warped in stripes with the colour repeat staggered. I'm puzzled about something though, why did this scarf increase in width when washed? The weft was slightly finer than the warp. I've never heard of this happening. I tried hemstitching for the first time and find it much easier to do than tying matching knots.

I've also been playing with a narrow band, the sort of thing you make on an inkle loom, this was fun. I used DMC Petra pearl cotton size 5 for this.


Last but not least, experiments using two heddles: first was a fine 2 ply wool. It was difficult to keep the edges even on this, and the finished fabric has a strange texture all over. I assume that I was getting the wrong length of weft. I think I was trying to avoid extreme draw in by using plenty of weft and got it wrong. Still, it's consistent and feels nice.

After that was a sample piece using crochet cottons. I found this from the Schacht website, and I just had to try the patterns.

This is half of it. I was trying different thicknesses of cotton for weft. Towards the end I was trying 1/3 twill and even had a go at 2/2 twill (last pale blue bit on the right), using a pickup stick and string heddles and a dowel rod to make the 4th shaft. Verdict: fiddly, but possible.

Currently, I'm pushing the possibilities with 1/2 and 2/1 twill, but that will be for next time.